The expanse.
Continuing along the coastline towards the East, the road becomes more empty, finally there's more space to breathe, we crowds are left behind. Although May is considered curb season, the south can get quite crowded, and finding an empty spot is a challenge. The east is a different story though.
Svartifoss.
Vatnajökull National Park covers 13% of Iceland's overall area and can take days to explore. Ice cave walks, hikes, and drives towards highlands on F roads.
We parked for a night in National Park's campsite, and woke up with an astonishing views of the white Vatnajökull glacier. A short morning hike away is the Svartifoss waterfall - framed by hexagonal granite, falling against a contrasting backdrop of pitch black basalt columns and opened up further views of Vatnajökull.
Svínafellsjökull.
Most people stick to tours on the neighbouring Skaftafellsjökull glacier, but the smaller Svínafellsjökull has easy access to view the glacier from a fairly high vantage point.
Jökulsárlón
Next detour the "Alternative carpark to Jokulsarlon" was absolutely empty, and with a short walk from the car we reached the lagoon with playful seals swimming around and floating ice glaciers in front of our eyes.
Diamond beach.
A black volcanic sand stretch where bits of melting icebergs from the glacier lagoon drift ashore and create a surreal sight, especially on clear sunny days. The amount of ice on shore is highly dependant on tides as if the tide is coming in, it blocks of the channel and nothing goes out. It's best to check the weather forecast before coming to see it in full glory.
Way to Hoffell Hot Tubs.
Our favorite geothermal tubs in the south of the island - Hoffel Hot Tubs, in the middle of nowhere, in farm fields, with an astonishing mountain ridge view. Not a lot can beat a sundowner soaking in a hot tub with a cold beer and such a view!
Stokksnes.
The peninsula landlords were the only ones charging for an entrance throughout our whole trip. But the views were absolutely worth it, it does give access to both the beautiful mountain views, sand dunes, and the viking village. The village was build for a movie that never ended up getting made, but it was fun trying to imagine how it would have looked on set. Some cute horses came for a cuddles as usual, it’s amazing that this nearly wild animal doesn't have any odour!
Road towards the North.
Stokksness was the last stop before a fairly long leg of breathtaking scenic coastal road in the fjords. Knowing that we won't be making any significant stops, we enjoyed short pitstops to enjoy the occasional lighthouse or waterfall. Sun was getting low when we reached Berunes, a small village with a campsite, where we decided to wrap up the day. Berunes campsite was our favourite of all we stayed in.
Hengifoss.
Highlight of the East was a 2.5 km hike by Hengifossárgljúfur gorge towards Hengifoss waterfall. On the way there's another astonishing waterfall - Litlanesfoss, falling through basalt columns in two steps and cascades into a small pond. Hengifoss itself is one of the highest waterfall in the country, cutting through a steep wall of layered burning red clay and black basalt columns. Colourful rock face surrounding the waterfall shows different layers from volcanic eruptions in the Tertiary period when Iceland was formed. During summer months it's possible to walk behind the fall. A little detour from the main path to the south, there is a third waterfall in a mini valley, worth an extra hike up into a steep hill.
Highlands.
Route 1 leaves the shores and goes up to the highlands in the northern part of the island, to a moonlike landscape, where temperature drops down rapidly and wind is so strong it's hard to open car doors.
Hverir.
Hverarönd bubbling geothermal mud pots is one of the stops, you can really feel like walking on the moon, intense sulfuric smells and fuming ground makes this feeling even stronger.
Myvatn baths.
Myvatn nature baths - the Blue Lagoon of the north, just less crowded, way cheaper and we guess it might even be better. If you didn't go to the Blue Lagoon this one is a good alternative.
Grjótagjá cave.
Grjótagjá cave, yes yes, same from the Game of Thrones, mystical lava cave with a hot spring. The cave used to be a public bathing spot, however after the eruptions of 1975 to 1984 the temperature of the water rose to more than 50 °C which makes it dangerous these days. These scene is quite surreal and worth the detour.
The ideal retreat of Húsavík.
The ideal destination if you are planning on watching some whales. However even if you're just passing by, it's still worth a stop as it's just so pretty with it's 100 year old church and its quaint fishing boats in the harbour.
