Trekking the less crowded way.

Whilst on our tour of South America, we wanted to take a trek through the Andes, avoiding the crowds but finishing up at Machu Picchu none-the-less. The regular Inca Trail seemed like a no-go due to traffic restrictions. Besides, we wanted a more nature oriented route. Salkantay Trail was a very good call.

The Imperial City.

We arrive to Cusco via a direct flight from Lima. The city used to be the historic capital of the Inca Empire back in 13th century and if you are planning to pay Machu Picchu a visit, chances are that you will start your journey here. Be it a train ride, a trek, or some other way. Allow for a minimum of 2 days to acclimatize to the altitude if coming from roughly sea level as Cusco is nested at 3400m elevation. Some do better, some do worse. Don't rush, take it slow. Small piece of advice - stay near Plaza de Armas. 

One. City to the glacial lake.

We start the day nice and early (4.30 a.m.) and are driven for around 4 hours till we reach Challacancha, where we unpack our trekking sticks poles say hi to the local mules and cows and head off. The initial climb from 3350 meters is easy but sets the tone that this will a fairly up and down experience. We walk along an old Inca water irrigation canal that functions till this very day.

First white caps.

After around 3 hours we finally get a glimpse of the first major mountain (mnt. Humantay - 5,473MSL). The surroundings start getting bigger and higher. You struggle to understand the scale of it all. After another half an hour we join our support party at the campsite, have lunch and recuperate for the 3+ hour climb towards lake Humantay at 4200m. 

The Lake.

The climb, even though vertically not that high (±350m. ascent) takes the toll on those who struggle with altitude. This is the very first proper test on your lungs and system in general. Most people got blue lips and gums due to oxygen shortage at this altitude. But the view that greeted us once we got over the ridgeline - something else entirely. No picture will ever do justice to the view of lake Humantay as we saw it that day. The lake is fed by a glacier from the mountain looming over it, making it rich in minerals, creating a an otherworldly colour, especially viewed from up top. A sight we will not forget for a very long while.

Two. Salkantay Pass.

The next day we get up at 5:00 am with a cup of hot coca tea knowing that this will be the toughest day of the trek. 22 km with the highest point over the Salkantay pass, however we had the added 'benefit' of rain/drizzle all the way through. It was kind of sad to see mount Salkantay covered in clouds, but such is life around in the Andes. Weather is unforeseeable. After we rolled over the pass, it was downhill only for another 10 km.  

Cloud Forest.

After a couple of hours we start seeing more and more vegetation and we realise that we are in the upper jungle of the Andes. Rocks and moss change to dense bush, trees and grass. We descend further into the bottom of the valley leading to Chaullay campsite for the night. However due to very muddy and slippery conditions we barely make it before nightfall using torchlights towards the end. All worth it though.

Three. Enjoy.

Due to some landslides, our guides opted to drive us through 6 km of the day's itinerary. Which left us with some time to enjoy the coffee tour and last but definitely not least - the hot springs of Santa Teresa. This was not included in the original trek, but because we were ahead of schedule for once, we had the choice of paying separately and enjoying a revitalizing hot swim in the Andes. 

Four. Sprint to Aguas Calientes.

Day four led  us to our final stop and is considered to be the last day of trekking. Even though it is only roughly 20 km of distance to cover, the rain in previous days made the terrain very slippery and made the distance very tough to tackle. No time for pictures, no time for droning. We start things off at the coffee farm from which we traverse through fairly dense jungle which leads us to some unbelievably pretty views of the valleys below and we start our descend towards Hydroelectrica which is our pitstop for lunch. Afterwards we head out along the rail lines directly to Aguas Calientes. Along the way, we get a glimpse of the ancient sacred city above us. 

Five. Machu Picchu.

On the last day we have only one goal - the sacred city. Because we decide to hike to Huayana Picchu (the peak looming over the city), we opted to take the bus up to MP to conserve some energy. In order to get a crowd free view, you really need to get into one of the first buses that start working at 5 am. Once you get there - even though you've seen it so many time - the place just takes your breath away. The scale of it, the complexity. By the way, we do urge everyone who's fairly fit to do Huayana Picchu. You get a unique view of MP and the Huayana Picchu itself is failry unique in it's own way. Below is a brief gallery of images take in and around this magical place.

Steep steps to Huayana Picchu.

Advice.

Go as early as possible, as you will want the extra spare time up there. Get a Machu Picchu stamp on your passport (it's by the entrance gate). It’s a nice token from a fairly unique trip. Trekking poles are forbidden and unnecessary. Bring snacks, water and the best camera you have. Bring a rain poncho, chances are it will rain at one point or another. Once you’re there - don’t rush. Breathe it all in.