Unlike anything else.
Hokkaido (which translates to "Northern sea circuit") is the northernmost island of Japan, famous for its high quality powder snow, making Japanese slopes some of the best the world has to offer. The secret of this exceptionally dry, weightless snow is a weather pattern that pushes extremely cold air across the Sea of Japan from Siberia. Landscape becomes a blanket of pure white, as the island experiences heavy snowfall of up to 15 metres every winter.
Once you leave Sapporo airport and the city behind, a monochrome canvas opens up with nothing just frosted dark green forest, deep blue sea, grey road framed in a white tunnel of snow and mountains ahead. It's fairly hypnotising.
The resorts.
There are quite a few ski resorts to choose from - Niseko, Rusutsu, Kiroro, Furano to name a few. All of which are quite close by. Probably the most famous and the most popular amongst foreigners is Niseko. The less crowded one and more local is Rusutsu, with some of the best tree runs in the world. We didn't try Kiroro and Furano yet. And of course there is mount Yotei, which is accessible via hiking only. And on the subject of hiking/traversing in resorts - the more you go outside the slopes, the more you explore the better your runs get. Best piece of advice - get a topographic map of the area, and plan well. It's worth it. Be sure to respect local rules and customs.
We can't say if we like Niseko or Rusutsu more, as they are equally good. Ski passes cost the same if you buy full week or you go for a separate pass each day, so no need to buy ahead, every morning you can check snow reports, and go accordingly. Be warned though that accomodation is sparse, so book well ahead.
Essentials.
Car is crucial if you are planning to ski in several resorts and explore the island. Book online with one of the local providers.
Accommodation in Niseko surroundings is pricey and the later you book, the more you pay, and less options you get. Hotels and airbnbs are booked half a year in advance, so don't delay the bookings. Both times we booked through Airbnb, first year it was five of us so we booked a Japanese style minimalistic house 15 minutes away from Niseko town in a small winter wonderland village, second year it was only two of us so we booked only a room in villa with shared facilities which turned out if not better - just as good as the hosts were stellar and even took charge of showing us around and giving us a bit of guidance off-piste.
It's better to do grocery shopping in Sapporo after you leave the airport. A translation app will help you a lot while in supermarket! One of the easiest to find is Aeon supermarket, which has really good selection of local and western products.
Eat Hokkaido.
Of course not all days you will be in the mood to cook, so go explore what locals have to offer, just stear clear of Niseko downtown cafes, as most of them are made for tourists and can be really disappointing.
Places we liked near Niseko:
Okonomyaki Ju for the best okonomyaki. If you don't know what is that when definitely must go!
For Local beers head to Niseko Brewing. Great food as well.
While on slopes in Niseko:
King Bell Hut for a cheap quick eat on mountain, big selection of japanese curries, noodles, soups and some western variations.
Mokumoku-Tei BBQ in Annupuri. Buffet, where you pay an entrance fee and then cook meats and veggies yourself on a hot plate as much as you can within one hour. One of the best mid-ski food experiences ever!
Yang Shu Tan in Niseko Village next to Hilton for a fancier meal in a Japanese style cafe. Try the Unagi (Eal)!
The Onsens.
Onsens (Japanese hot springs) while in Hokkaido is a must! There is nothing better after a day of sweat and burning legs to soak in a hot onsen outdoors and watch the snow falling. We did it every evening instead of taking showers in our apartment. In most of the onsens there is a relaxing room there you can pop a beer or iced tea, and chill in a massage chair.
There are many onsens in Niseko area, most of them are separate men and ladies as per traditions, but there are several adapted for tourists that are mixed gender, although we would recommend the traditional ones. Before you go, check etiquette and rules to be know your way around and not be surprised with 'what should I do with this small towel'.
Our favorite onsen near Niseko: Niseko Annupuri Onsen Yuden Tei.
And one going back from Rusutsu to Niseko, with an amazing view of mount Yotei: Makkari Hot Spring.
A first impression.
Traveling first time to Japan and not stopping in Tokyo would be a crime. It's tough to say how much time is enough for Tokyo, for us – probably never enough, as we could wander around different areas of the city, blending into the vibes, checking local boutiques, sipping artisan coffees and trying different local foods for weeks, but a 4 night layover would be OK to get a first impression of the city and if you have more time – travel to Kyoto, Osaka or other cities.
Location.
Living close to metro line is essential in Tokyo, as the life boils around them. In a beginning metro might look confusing but when you get into it, it's the most convenient way to travel in the city.
Open minded food wise.
It would be impossible to dine at every restaurant, and food stall in Tokyo in a single lifetime. To choose the right one from the sea might look like a mission. Exploring food in Tokyo is big fun, and can't be precisely planned, our advice is to embrace your senses of adventure and try eating out of your comfort zone, go crazy, try unseen, follow locals (especially on street food) not tourists . And remember - Japan is not only sushi and ramen....
One place we put the star on our map was:
"Warayakiya" izakaya in Akasaka, a bit pricey, but Eel and Bonito fish was so good that we are coming back for it next year!
Tsukiji tuna auction. ( not happening anymore)
What an experience! Definitely worth getting up earlier than pretty much anything else in the city.
Tsukiji is the biggest fish market in the world, and probably one of the oldest. But it's counting its last days, because it's planned to move to modern market, but while its move has been repeatedly delayed you can still visit it, and feel the incredible vibes. If you are planning to attend in Tuna auction you need to get up very early (or stay late) as auction starts 5:50am first group, and 6:10 am second group, and only 120 visitors per day, that means you need to come around 3am to book your slot. Then you come you get high visibility vest confirming that you are the one of the 120 lucky ones, 60 vests one colour for group one, 60 other colour for group two. Then you get your slot there's still few hours of waiting in a small room, so take some drinks, snacks, entertainments or earplugs and try to nap... Not every day is open for public so check their website before you go!
After auction explore fish stands
Tuna aside.
After the auction is done explore fish stands and eateries in the market. Fresh sushi 6 in the morning? Oh yes! This was the only time we ate sushi during our visit in Japan, and it was unforgettable. We couldn't wait for the never ending line for famous Sushi Dai, as we were rushing to the Sumo tournament that same morning. But we found this small amazing sushi joint Sushi-dokoro Okame. which I believe was equally as good, we never ate better sushi in our life, we didn't want to try sushi other days in other places, as we didn't want to ruin the impression that was left by the fish market.
Sumo.
Witnessing a sumo match is another amazing experience in Japan. We were lucky enough to be in Tokyo during the annual Grand Tournament held in the impressive Kokugikan stadium in Ryogoku. Tickets were already sold out, but we found out that they are selling the very last 350 tickets on the day of the event, first come first serve basis, which means you have to come early in the morning to secure a place in the queue before the ticket office before opens at 7:45am (about one hour before you are given a numbered slip by sales staff that shows where you are in the queue). So after our night waiting for Tsukiji tuna auction in one queue and sushi breakfast in the market we headed to another queue for sumo. Even though we were already quite late, we didn't miss out on this amazing opportunity.
Shopping.
You might not plan for it, but Tokyo will always involve some shopping, it's next to impossible to resist the things they have on offer in some of their shops. there are so many unique stores that will make you to open your wallet. If you're visiting Tokyo before your snow trip and still missing something, visit the Jimbocho Winter Sports Shop Street. Stores after stores, floors after floors dedicated to winter sports, from big brands to unique niche boutiques.
See you next year.
Japanese people are just unfailingly polite, they genuinely seem eager to help, if they don't speak english, they will find someone who does or will quickly download an app to communicate with you. There are so many etiquette rules they follow, that it's almost certain that will you feel like a clumsy moron no matter how much you prepared for the trip.
So as you see, it's not just the search for the driest, lightest snow that makes Japan so special, it's everything combined - nature, culture, genuine people, insanely good food, onsens, accommodations. It just leaves you wanting to come back over and over again.
